Week 1: Carnaval, Fuerza Brute, and Living in Recoleta

This week has been a roller coaster, packed with orientation, learning how to use public transportation, acquiring a phone, and trying not to look or sound too foreign (a complete failure so far). In between IFSA program sessions about classes, history, and practical advice, I've had some time to get to know my host family and fellow students.

 My host dog, Miel, and cat, Alu.

My third night in Buenos Aires, my host sister Sofia invited me to meet some of her friends at a fiesta de Carnaval. It was basically a block party, with lots of families milling around, children spraying each other with cans of foam (think silly string, but foam comes out instead), and a few people grilling. A local band played on a temporary stage. It wasn't really Sofi's scene, and her friends arrived late, but it was worth hanging out to people watch and witness the main event: a mini parade/special dance. People dressed in costumes reminiscent of Mardi Gras, played drums, and danced a choreographed dance. I'm sure the dance had some significance to Easter or religion in some way, but I couldn't tell you what. Sofi didn't know either.

Me and Sofi at the fiesta de Carnaval

Carnaval dancers

As the week wore on, scheduled activities grew sparser and I got to know the other students a little better. Wednesday, I wandered through Recoleta, the neighborhood where I live. Recoleta is home to Buenos Aires' old money, who relocated from San Telmo in the late 1800s to escape a yellow fever epidemic. A friend had told me about a nearby dog park, which is excitingly close to my apartment. I wandered through it and watched the dogs before stopping at the grocery store on the way home.

Thursday, the program organized an evening out to a show, Fuerza Brute. A new friend, Lauren, and I walked there together, and stopped for Dulce de Leche gelato on the way. It had chocolate chunks in it and was amazing. The group met at the Recoleta cultural center, and piled into a dark event space with other audience members. Under neon lights and smoke sprayed for special effect, a band began to play incredibly loudly. It was basically a rave at first, with many people drinking, though no drugs that I observed. Then the group began to perform other, bizarre bits. The crowd was pushed around as a gigantic treadmill was rolled into the middle of the floor, with a man in white running on it; girls in white dresses screeched and ran around the walls, suspended from the ceiling; a plexiglass container, the size of the room, was lowered from above, and we watched as performers slid across it. There's really no way to describe Fuerza Brute, other than saying it's bizarre. I think there was some plot line to what was happening, but it was over my head.

Fuerza Bruta, at the Recoleta Cultural Center

Friday, Mario, the program director gave us a history lesson by taking us around el Cementerio de la Recoleta, one of the must-see spots in Buenos Aires. Everyone has compared the cemetery to Arlington, as it's the national cemetery. Aside from that, they have little in common. El Cementerio is a little city within itself, about the area of four city blocks. Mausoleums line the walking paths, some ornate, others not. All but five major Argentine political figures are buried there, along with military generals and the just plain rich. The most notable figure might be Evita Perón, but you'd be surprised by the inconspicuousness of her tomb.

El Cementerio de la Recoleta

Mausoleum where Evita Perón is buried -- it belongs to her brother-in-law's family, or some similar tenuous connection.

That night, groups from each neighborhood in the city met with program faculty for dinner. I had a blast, dining on bife de chorizo, the classic Argentine cut of beef, salad, and crepes filled with dulce de leche for dessert.

Medio Bife de Chorizo

Saturday, I met my friends Michaela and Caroline outside the cemetery, and we spent the afternoon wandering the parks that populate the northern part of la Recoleta. On the weekends, an artisan fair covers Plaza Francia, so we wandered the stalls and marveled at the metal and leather work. Another iconic Buenos Aires spot is Floralis Genérica, a large metal flower whose petals open and close depending on the time of day. While visiting this spot, we found a cat, which was probably the highlight of the day. This part of the park borders the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, which we also visited. After spending some time perusing the art indoors, we had a moment of hysterical laughter posing with statues on the rooftop. Overall, a great day out.

at Floralis Genérico

New Friend

Does nature imitate art or does art imitate nature? -- Caroline

Caroline (left) and Michaela at Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes

Next week, the adventure continues. In addition to more orientation activities, I hope to find out what classes I'll be trying -- we try 10-12 at first before paring down to 4-5 -- and when they start. Chau for now!